Craig wandered the market and picked up a few decorations to make Christmas Day feel more special. Erin splurged on a luxuriously long massage by a talented Malay girl who apologetically told her that she was too stiff to be worked on. A jar of Tiger Balm helped remedy the situation, and Erin's hoping to visit her on our return. We each chuckled at the signs by the door stating that "No Immoral Activity" was allowed in the joint, and that you're not to make sounds when you're having your treatment because it disturbs other clients.
Since their first trip together Erin & Craig have used a high-five and synchronized cheer of "Adventure!" to help keep their spirits up when the travel gods throw them a curve-ball. Now they will put it to the ultimate test as they embark on world-wide travel with an added team member: their baby!
Tuesday, December 31, 2013
Days 150-153: Kota Kinabalu
Craig wandered the market and picked up a few decorations to make Christmas Day feel more special. Erin splurged on a luxuriously long massage by a talented Malay girl who apologetically told her that she was too stiff to be worked on. A jar of Tiger Balm helped remedy the situation, and Erin's hoping to visit her on our return. We each chuckled at the signs by the door stating that "No Immoral Activity" was allowed in the joint, and that you're not to make sounds when you're having your treatment because it disturbs other clients.
Friday, December 27, 2013
Days 144-149: The Tip of Borneo
The mix-up with our Indian visas gave us an extra week in Borneo. Since we had plans to meet up with Diane on Christmas Eve, and were exhausted from our fast pace, we chose to book in to a relaxing beach location for six nights. We had planned to take the bus from downtown, but were offered a good price from the taxi driver who picked us up at the airport, so we chose to take advantage of the quicker transport. The driver picked up his two daughters to accompany us, who were on holiday from school, and we shared laughs, and taught each other some phrases. It was adorable how the eldest daughter had decided she wanted to go to University in London...all because of One Direction!
Our accommodation excelled at being eco-friendly. There were composting toilets, free filtered water to cut down on plastic bottles, solar heated showers, and an owner in-tune with the needs of the community. He is doing amazing things to support the Rungus people native to the area, as well, and we got a tour of the school that is being worked on by World Challenge groups that come through and stay at his place.
But the place did foster a lot of sociability. We met wonderful people to share some meals with, and had a fun afternoon of games that lasted late into the evening, and deep into our pockets by the amount of pints we shared.
- walking up to the true Tip of Borneo and seeing the Philippines across the Sulu Sea
- getting the ball rolling on a huge beach bonfire at sunset
- bike riding up and down the difficult hills to find a completely secluded beach
- showering with the moon rising and the stars above
- riding the waves throughout the day but also during one of the most beautiful sunsets either of us had ever seen!
We were serenaded one night at dinner by local kids singing Christmas carols. |
Day 143: Speeding Through Singapore
We knew our time in Singapore was extremely limited and at the top of the itinerary was the much-recommended Orchid Garden at the Botanical Gardens. It boasted raving reviews, but the catch was that the last ticket was sold at 6 pm and the place closed at 7 pm. We'd checked train schedules ahead of time, and thought we might be able to do it, but even after racing off the plane and got through customs, time looked tight (we were really glad that we didn't have to collect our checked baggage). So we lined up for a taxi instead, and even still, arrived at the gate at 5:45. There was no doubt that it was worth it.
After all of the reviews, we knew it would be gorgeous. What we didn't expect was that an orchid garden could actually be MIND BLOWING. These things were CRAZY! We loved the VIP garden in the back where new orchid species were named after visiting dignitaries. We tried playing a game where we'd each get to pick two orchids to use at our wedding, if we were going to have orchids, but it quickly became impossible. We'll now overwhelm you with photos and still feel like we haven't shown enough:
It was a little late to do more sight-seeing, but we didn't want to quite throw in the towel. So we headed to Orchard Road to see the big Christmas displays, even though most of the fancy high-end stores were closed.
Then we headed across town to our slightly dodgier dorm-room hostel for the night.
Day 143: Impressions of India
India wasn't nearly as difficult to travel in than others led us to believe, likely due to the poverty we'd already been experiencing. The main difference was that it stood out more. In Madagascar, for example, everyone was poor, so it was less noticeable, if that makes sense. In India, you can see the extreme distribution of wealth and it's enhanced by the setting. Great forts and palaces create a medieval feeling where kings and queens sit looking down at their village, including its peasants. The poor aren't hidden down alleyways and in ghettos like so many Western cities.
The number of children begging was certainly difficult to see, but again, not unusual. It was a sad sight that we've seen in each country we've visited (except Reunion and Mauritius). We've struggled to decide on an area to support as there are so many that are valuable. But for India, we've decided to focus our efforts on improving the rights of women. With rape, gender selection, and girls dying at three times the rate of boys from malnutrition, it's clear that the women in India need some support.
Overall, our experience in India was positive with lots of delicious food, easy bus rides, and marvellous architecture. Whether or not you believe in Hinduism, there is no denying the beauty in their religious celebrations and buildings. And watching women walk through the streets in their saris is just mystical.
Leg Three showed us culture, history, and a view into the lives of one sixth of the world's population. We're leaving feeling like there are many corners of Nepal and India left to explore. We had high hopes to create a video to some great Hindu music but have settled on another one of our favourites.
Leg 3 Video
The number of children begging was certainly difficult to see, but again, not unusual. It was a sad sight that we've seen in each country we've visited (except Reunion and Mauritius). We've struggled to decide on an area to support as there are so many that are valuable. But for India, we've decided to focus our efforts on improving the rights of women. With rape, gender selection, and girls dying at three times the rate of boys from malnutrition, it's clear that the women in India need some support.
Overall, our experience in India was positive with lots of delicious food, easy bus rides, and marvellous architecture. Whether or not you believe in Hinduism, there is no denying the beauty in their religious celebrations and buildings. And watching women walk through the streets in their saris is just mystical.
Leg Three showed us culture, history, and a view into the lives of one sixth of the world's population. We're leaving feeling like there are many corners of Nepal and India left to explore. We had high hopes to create a video to some great Hindu music but have settled on another one of our favourites.
Leg 3 Video
Wednesday, December 18, 2013
Days 142: Ballin' in Slumbai
We learned that our only way to Mumbai was on a night bus, so we gained an extra day in Ahmedabad mainly to relax in our hotel room since we'd exhausted Ahmedabad's tourist sites the day before. Our only outlet was hooked up to the tv, so we watched movies on HBO and rushed to plug in devices on the well-timed commercial breaks so they would be full for our long ride ahead. If you get a chance to stay with Hotel Good Night, it'll be worth every penny because they have a 24 hour check-in/check-out policy, so since we'd arrived in the evening two days prior, we didn't have to check out until 8pm (with no added charge!).
The sleeper bus turned out to be fairly comfortable, a little too short to fit us perfectly, but we managed. After a rocky start with a driver, who felt to be a teenager behind wheels for the first time, accelerating and stopping with such force we were both turning green, we hit the open highway and let the bouncing vibrations lull us into a restful state. The ten hours passed quickly and we arrived in Mumbai as the sun was rising behind a wall of polluted haze.
We should mention that when we discovered that we could only take a night bus and would be arriving in the morning, we called the hotel we had booked in Mumbai (and paid a deposit fee for), to inform them we'd only be staying one night instead of two. They replied that we would have to pay for both nights in full. So WE replied that in that case, we would cancel our entire reservation with them, allowing them to keep the 10% deposit for two nights which would be less money lost overall. So, we found a different hotel in Mumbai and booked for one night through Agoda.
So, back to us arriving to Mumbai. Getting to our prepaid hotel was easy, but when we walked in with booking reference in hand, they informed us that they did not have any vacancies and they had not confirmed this reservation with Agoda. A large argument ensued, the hotel manager was called, and we left completely enraged that they would not honour the room that we had ALREADY PAID FOR!
Needing some time to think and cool down, we decided to go to one of the fancy hotels in the area for air conditioning and a nice breakfast, where we could figure out our next plan. The auto driver (who had witnessed, and for whatever reason participated in our argument with the hotel manager) felt that we should go to a different hotel than the one we asked for, and took us on his merry way. This escalated to us threatening to jump out of the rickshaw when he wouldn't stop and let us out. Finally, completely at our wits end, we arrived (with a different auto) to the Suba International, and to their credit, the hotel receptionist didn't bat an eye at our sorry state. At the end of breakfast, the waiter asked where we were staying, looked at Erin's quivering eyes as she replied that we had already paid for two different hotel rooms for that night but still had nowhere to stay, and went to talk with the hotel manager.
After a few minutes of negotiations, we were offered the only room they had left, the Executive Suite (of course, there were no basic or deluxe rooms available, only suites...), at a severely discounted rate. Yes, that rate was still well above our budget, but we splurged, and immediately had a nap on what must be the most comfortable bed in the entire world.
Also of note: you control the lights, tv, air conditioner, you name it, with an iPod Touch!!! We can even monitor who's outside our door from the built-in camera.


We rounded out the day back in our Bollywood suite ordering room service and watching movies on demand. Not the Mumbai experience we were expecting, but an example of taking the bad with the good all the same.
Day 140-141: Ahmedabad
Amazing detail in a Stepwell! |
Electing to have another relaxing morning in Udaipur, we caught the afternoon bus to Amdavad (Ahmedabad) getting in just as the sun set. We found our hotel down an alley flanked by shady warehouses half full of non-descript boxes with half written signs directing you up narrow dark stairways. Clearly hesitant about what our hotel would be like, we were surprised to walk up the steps to something sleek and modern, with decorating ideas we may even take away from their lobby. The room was equally modern and we happily wiled away another night with some bad movies and delicious food thanks to the restaurant downstairs.
In the morning, we set out trying to avoid the heat to see one of the best examples of a Gujarati stepwell. Craig had practised the name of the stepwell many times, but could not seem to communicate with the auto driver or any of the helpful passerbys. Eventually a nearby hotel owner came over and helped us on our way, also ensuring that the driver take us to two other sites for a smashing good price. Not having researched very much, it was nice to make our day trip more worthwhile.
The first bonus stop was at Gandhi's ashram (we think?) where we learned a lot more about his life, and Craig relayed the stranger of Gandhi's (non) sexual practices and beliefs to Erin.
The second bonus stop was another Jain temple. Although not as overwhelmingly beautiful as the first, we still had to go very slowly to appreciate the complexity of the designs. Photography wasn't allowed in this one.
On our way into town we had seen a long market street, so we ventured out in the afternoon but failed to find any great deals besides a new pair of headphones for Craig.
Day 139: Udaipur
After, we planned to go on a boat ride on the lake to see the lake palace from water level and get some new views of our surroundings, but we had just missed the boat. We did learn that we needed two more tickets each in order to go on the boat ride (one ticket just to get us through the next walkway beside the palace). With each ticket made of cardstock and half the size of a piece of paper we were running out of space to store them all.
Instead of waiting in the heat for the next boat we went out for lunch on a rooftop and then returned to the palace to catch our ride. The lake was beautiful but the lake palace was quite underwhelming after the stunning one we saw in Jaipur. Still, it will be cool to rewatch Octopussy and know that we've been there. We spent 30 minutes on an island that had some interesting architecture and great gardens at the water's edge.
Days 137-138: Places with Cool Names
Kumbhalgarh is set atop a high peak in the hills of the Aravalli range. It proudly advertises its wall's claim to fame: being second to only the Great Wall of China in size. Though not entirely clear in its description, we imagine that "largeness" refers to the length of the wall; however, it's also extremely impressive in width as twelve horses can march abreast at once.
The first benefit to the fort being a two-hour drive outside of town (after the beautifully scenic drive) was the lack of tourists. There were only four other friendly people who we crossed paths with up the windy walkway, through four gates, and into the fort's palace. The next was a complete lack of tourist infastructure inside the fort. It's been emptied out, so instead of admiring all of the royal relics of the past, you're there to gasp at the views across the mountains and towards the sand-duned desert, study the architecture, and get some exercise! So not only was it void of tourists, but also guards, salesmen, and guides vying for your business. This left us free to wander and make spooky noises in the darkened, echoing stairwells of the castle.
We had reservations about visiting another Jain temple after the first experience but we'd heard marvellous things about Ranakpur so we tried our best to smile and patiently adhere to their many requests prior to entering (we'd gotten no black clothing and no leather products right, but had failed at 'conservative covering clothing' because Craig was wearing shorts, and had to leave our cell phone, water, and gum behind). Surprisingly, the tampons in our bag weren't confiscated, though perhaps the security guard didn't know what they were? All in all, it was beyond worth it, and Craig couldn't stop raving about how comfortable his rented pyjama pants were.
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