Day 101: Second Hundred Days Starts with a Blaaah

Still feeling a bit exhausted from our long travel day, we tried not to overwhelm our schedule. Our one big task for the day was to drop off our visa applications at the Indian Embassy, then we thought we'd laze around and maybe visit a quiet garden area with internet.

Things didn't quite go as planned. We joined the throngs of people waiting for their turn to drop off their application, then Craig was told he needed to do some rephrasing to make 'underemployed' sound a bit more acceptable. It was well after lunch time when we finally were able to leave, so we just wanted to grab a taxi and get back to our hotel.

We found one waiting right outside of the embassy and got in and gave our directions. It quickly became clear that the driver didn't know where he was going and he tried to turn the wrong way at the end of the street at a major road. Unable to give him directions, we exited the cab and decided to try walking.

We paid him 7% of the rate, despite our short distance, yet he still insisted on the full amount, roughly $1.50. The driver proceeded to follow us, first by car, then on foot, demanding that we pay our full fare, even though we'd only gone half a block.

This escalated to the point that we were able to pick out threats in the driver's broken English, with Craig offering to bring the police in if he preferred they settle it. He followed us for another few blocks, then deciding that the small fare wasn't worth the stress and aggravation caused by the situation, Craig crumpled up 100 rupees (~$1) and threw it on the ground. The driver picked it up and left apparently satisfied.

To recentre ourselves, we attended a CouchSurfing meet-up that night to surround ourselves with like-minded travellers. We were reassured that our experiences today were unique and that Nepali people are kind and humble. We enjoyed exchanging stories and learning tips about South America from a fun couple who have been living abroad and travelling internationally at length.

100th Day!

We arrived in Kathmandu after 7 pm, so it was dark when we drove in from the airport. The colours of our Thamel neighborhood were enticing, and it seemed a never-ending stream of shops, cycling through outdoor equipment, pashminas, knitted clothing, puppets, tea and tiger balm, and back to outdoor equipment. At a first impression, we thought we'd like it here.

We slept well thanks to our exceptionally long travel day, and awoke on Halloween ready to celebrate something different: our 100th day of travelling!

Most of the day was truly spent lounging and napping, but we did manage to get a few key things done - phase 1 of our Indian Visa application, laundry, and book a trek. We decided on Gosaikund in the Langtang area of the Himalayas because it is less busy than the base camp for Everest, and the Anapurna loop, yet it still boasts good views and is great for people without a lot of time. It will be eight days hiking with one day near the beginning for acclimatization.

At the end of the day, we braved the maze of streets and searched for a recommended steakhouse in order to celebrate Albertan style! After a few attempts we settled for our second choice, a cute French restaurant that proved delicious. We were also pleased to celebrate our hundredth day by it being the first day of the whole trip where we didn't have to take our anti-malaria medication!

After 100 days, it actually seems to have gotten easier. We still miss our friends and family, but we have found our stride and are not nearly as phased by uncomfortable circumstances/transportation/accommodation. And more importantly we take great pleasure from the surprise of finding a little luxury here and there; a good piña colada for Erin, and a decent pizza for Craig can go a long way. There are things we look forward to about returning home, but for now we are incredibly content and feel very lucky to have this life!

Day 99: Where One Leg Ends Another Begins (on the Scariest Monster Ever)

On today's long haul flight, we had some time to reflect on our trip. The conclusion: Leg Two was awesome! We realized on our volcano hike in that there was a good reason we were a little tired under the surface. These were the startling statistics we realized from the start of Leg 2 to that day in Reunion:

Number of Days: 40
Number of 'Travel Days' (includes trekking days): 22
Number of Days Hiking: 14
(this doesn't include days walking around cities)

The number of breakfasts before hiking/amount of food we ate on hiking days is also startlingly low compared to what we're used to at home because we basically had to rely on eating at restaurants for food.

The entire second leg took place in French-speaking islands. This was great because Erin's French was strong enough that communicating was easier than in other countries where their English was so poor. The disadvantage was that it was tiring for us to constantly be searching for words or trying to understand other people, and the weight of organizing things usually fell to Erin's shoulders (though Craig tried to help out as much as possible). Erin was so excited, though, every time someone would attempt to speak English back, and they gave up realizing her French was much stronger than their English.

The diversity in quality of life between three islands so close together is striking. We're not sure you could get more extreme than Madagascar and Reunion. We know our feelings about which we prefer is already perfectly clear.

With almost the entire leg taking place in Madagascar, we wanted a song that spoke to the adventurousness of the island, but that also had a French flair. So after much deliberation, we found the perfect fit. As Craig said, "If anyone doesn't know what song this is, then they're a lucky bastard because they've just been awarded hours of great entertainment!" (If you need help figuring it out, don't be afraid to ask!) Oh, and if you're truly sick of lemurs already, then maybe don't bother watching this.

Today's epic travel day began with us leaving Mauritius at 4:30 pm on Day 98, flying to Johannesburg, South Africa, then Doha, Qatar, then finally landing in Kathmandu at 6:30 pm on Day 99. There were a surprising number of great things about the trip:

- We got fed lots of food (gluten-free options were even available for Erin!)
- In the airports we loaded up on salads that we felt were safe to eat
- The drink caddies contained free booze of all sorts (on flight 3, Craig enjoyed a nice brandy at the end of his meal)
- We watched 11 movies between the two of us (the second and third flights had over 100 movies we could choose from, plus tv shows and such... not a big surprise to most people used to travelling in N.A., but it was a real treat to us to even watch an episode of tv, let alone do it on a plane!)
- On our long-haul flight we had three seats for the two of us, so we were able to stretch out a bit to try to sleep
- We had free wifi in Doha for our 4 hour layover
- We found a good price on a new camera in Doha, and they gave us 100 Qatar Dollars? (there wasn't enough time to figure out what the currency was called!) to spend at Duty Free (at first we looked at simple rings to stand-in as engagement ring, but we were pressured for time, so we just used it to buy candy!)
- They served soya-based drinks at the Doha coffeeshop
- The Jo-Burg airport was super 'Western' so we found new playing cards (we have LOVED our Rocky Mountain ones thanks to Craig's parents, and they are basically all used-up already). We thought the Africa ones we found are great, with each card being a different country, showing stats about it (we're going to try to play Ten Days in Africa with the cards, too). We also found wedding magazines!
- It was interesting to see modern Qatar rising out of the desert as we flew in, and the identical man-made islands
- We knew at the end of it all, we had an airport transfer waiting for us

Days 95-98: Mauritius

Our descent into Mauritius was quite beautiful and we got a good sense for the size of the small island nation as we got views across the entire island and its sharp, almost brittle looking peaks. Although it was dark by the time we reached our hotel we could still appreciate the view from our seaside balcony and knew that in the morning there would likely be mountain silhouettes added to the horizon.

Craig even found an appropriately
named beer

We awoke to a stunning sunrise over the ocean and small offshore islands. As it was already quite hot by 6:30 am we donned our swimming trunks and went to lounge by the pool overlooking the ocean on a comfy day bed. After enjoying the sun and a dip we had breakfast and went off to find the Blue Bay beach. Following a short public bus ride, a lunch of venison and chicken skewers we splurged and shelled out the few bucks for two lounge chairs and an umbrella for the rest of the day. The views were superb with huge waves crashing at the barrier reef hundreds of meters out on the otherside of a small idyllic island.

The next day we hired a taxi driver to take us to see all the sites in the south of the island. We visited the waters of the Ganges river; when Shiva was carrying the river around the world a drop of it fell in Mauritius to make the sacred lake Grand Bassin. Craig got blessed there and we saw a gigantic statue of Shiva. From there it was off to do a short hike/walk in Black River Gorge National Park, followed by a few view points of the gorge.

Another 10 km brought us to the surprising cool seven coloured earth and nearby Chamarel waterfall. The seven coloured earths featured six colours of earth (by Craig's count) surrounded by lush, jagged ridges. Erin enjoyed the giant tortoises and it was interesting to see them stagger about.

The last stop of the day we had chosen to visit La Morne, a stunning peninsula dominated by a large cliff and rimmed by white sand beaches. Having seen it from the sky we decided that we needed to visit. Lunch as a meal was very disappointing but the couple hours spent lying out on the sand and swimming in the clear waters looking back at the imposing cliff was possibly the highlight of the day.

The last two days were spent relaxing either on our balcony or back at Blue Bay (if you ever visit this stunning public beach and find a patch of sand that is perfect, devoid of any coral, stones, or shells, you can thank Craig). For our last night, we made the most of our lavish suite (complete with mini-fridge and tabletop stove) by cooking our own dinner. We even found gluten-free pasta at the grocery store, and mixed up a sundried tomato sauce, once paired with some cold white wine it was perfection!

We'd also like to note that we asked about Mauritian wine but were told they don't make any, making it the first country of the trip that we did not drink locally made wine.

Day 94: A Ride Through Reunion

Our flight to Mauritius wasn't until 4 pm, so we wanted to make the most of the day, even if it meant that our big bags would be in tow. Hiring a car up to the mountains wasn't a possibility financially, so we took advantage of the amazing transit system and settled in for the best bus ride either of us has ever had!

We had wanted to visit Selassie, riding around the south coast then up into the hills, but because of scheduling we ended up heading towards Cilaos, which did not disappoint. We waited eagerly in line at the bus stop, grabbed the two seats up front and soaked in the scenery through the big windows in front, and on either side of us.

The route started by passing through the hub St. Louis, then by increasing smaller towns. We gained altitude and were provided with a glimpse of the outstanding views ahead. A windy road led us through impossibly steep valleys, along perilous cliff sides, and through tunnels so narrow that the walls were inches from our faces. It was the only time we'd ever seen someone use their rearview and side mirrors to see ahead on the road (can you picture a hairpin turn so sharp that you understand what we mean?). Only once did the driver need to put the bus in reverse in order to make a corner, and he received several "Bravos" for what was undoubtedly the single greatest display of drivesmanship either of us has ever seen. (We would have clapped if it wasn't the Reunise way of indicating it was your stop).

Our photos do not do the sweeping views justice.

At the end of the line, we got our workout by heading uphill with our year's worth of stuff to find a restaurant. As if the astounding mountain views sprouting up from every corner of the city weren't enough, the town had a lovely lake complete with fountains in its centre. What a lunch we had! Then it was back down to the station, over to the airport (sadly forgetting our video camera on the bus on the way), to leave for country #8, Mauritius!

Day 93: Reunion: The Beauty

Craig's 'Driving through Southern France moustache'

Our first glimpse of Reunion was stunning. It seemed to rise from the depths of the sea and head straight for the sky. From our seats, the plane skirted over the ocean, getting closer and closer until the land suddenly appeared beneath us moments before landing. Leaving the airport, we followed the coast (the ring road absolutely stuffed with cars), and saw the waves crashing into the volcanic rock the island is made out of. On the inland side, a massive rock face rose above us to a cliff. We watched the sun set deep into the ocean, Erin catching a glimpse of the 'green flash' we'd been searching for.

It didn't take us long to feel accustomed to the regular comforts of home. Our first accommodation was impeccably clean, and the large, comfortable bed with fluffy pillows was enticing as no mosquito net hung above it (Reunion eradicated malaria about five years ago). The water was filtered, we were able to eat salads, and the wine was tasteful.

Le Piton de Neiges, Reunion's highest peak

Erin celebrated her birthday while we were there, and she had just accomplished her goal of 20 countries while she was 30. Knowing we wouldn't have much time on the island, we had narrowed our activities down to two main attractions: climb 'The Volcano' and visit the stunning valleys and gorges surrounding the island's highest peak.

For Erin's birthday, we tackled To-Do #1. It was an expensive endeavour, as everything was in Reunion, but we arranged for transportation to take us to the trailhead (getting there ourselves was out of the question, as public transit drops you off 25 km from the start!). We joined the hoards of people heading down the trail towards the volcano across the valley.

The Volcano (actually named Le Piton de la Fournaise) used to look different (see above). In 2007, there was an eruption causing the crater to collapse, and the lava left a valley of hardened lava. It also prevented visitors from walking around its summit. Approaching the volcano from the west, our hike would be 580 stairs down to the valley, across the hot, hardened lava, up the volcano's side, and around to the Eastern summit (the section in front of the plain was not safe for summiting, so discouragingly, every time we thought we were near the summit, we would round a corner to see we had to head back down before proceeding up again). Then, of course, we had to go all the way back, including those 580 steps up at the end!

The weather was clear and beautiful for views, meaning we had hot sun on our backs, and faces from it reflecting off the black ground. It is important to note (for our mothers) that this volcano, though active, is very safe! It is not explosive, and is constantly being monitored. We were reassured that should there be any activity, helicopters would fly close to the peak and relay a message to hikers via megaphones that they needed to get off the volcano. Thankfully, this did not happen for us.

The hike seemed simple enough, until we started curving further around the side rather than mounting higher, and our stomachs rumbled from leaving at 6 am without breakfast. Our snacks of candy and chips didn't do much to mask our hunger. But we continued all the same. We felt great when we neared the actual peak, and were excited to look into the huge beast together. It took great self-control to swallow our disappointment when we saw there was no red lava bubbling inside, but just a great big pit of volcanic gravel. HOWEVER, the views were gorgeous and we enjoyed a snack and break all the same. We were proud of our pace, and beat our driver's time by 45 minutes!

Where the lava flowed into the ocean in the 2007 eruption.

Finally back at the beginning!

Upon hearing it was Erin's birthday, our lovely driver generously dropped us off at one of the most beautiful beaches on the island, where we relaxed for the next few hours. There was a small swimming area built to protect bathers from sharks, and a hot sandy beach and shady park to relax in. We watched nervously as two surfers ignored the warnings, but the most excitement we saw was a few good tricks and spills. The views were breath-taking, complete with huge crashes of water against the cliffs, supporting a five-star resort above that is frequented by former president Nicholas Sarkozi.

Days 90-94: Reunion: The Beast

With little time or internet access in Madagascar, and no guidebook for Réunion and Mauritius, we'd done little to prepare for the last ten days of Leg 2. We were on our way to each for four nights... a quick tour of each tiny island on our way to Nepal. To cut down on costs, and enjoy the freedom of transportation after so many weeks of time-consuming planning for getting around Madagascar, we had booked a rental car for Réunion. The plan was to arrive, get our car, and spend three days driving around, sipping tea at cafés, and being European.

We had debated a lot whether Réunion should count as its own country. It's technically a part of France, but we expected the 'island feel' to make it seem like a different culture. But from the moment we entered the airport, it felt like France. The airport was air-conditioned for goodness sake! There were automatic sinks in the impeccably clean washrooms (though still no toilet seats... what's everyone in the world got against toilet seats?). When exiting the plane, Erin actually exclaimed, 'Wow!' out loud when seeing we weren't walking down onto the tarmac. Needless to say, this was where our culture shock first began.

The impressiveness stopped there when we encountered a snooty man at the car rental place who insisted we needed an international driver's license to rent a vehicle, even though it is not required by French law, nor had they indicated this on their website. We were declined our car and told smugly by the other agencies that they had no more cars available.

A 160 Euro cab ride later, we pulled into our lovely guesthouse with panoramic views of the coast and sweeping hillside. It was just what we wanted... when we had assumed we'd be able to get ourselves in and out of the remote location independently. We each took our own moments to be upset, then settled down to a delicious duck dinner, trying to be positive. Erin thought she was nauseous from being so upset from the ordeal, but it was evident not soon after that she had contracted Craig's earlier sickness. It was a sleepless night followed by a day of eating tiny bites of the gluten-free crackers we'd brought along just for this purpose. It's amazing we've made it this far before needing them!

Although the trip definitely picked up, it left a bitter taste in our mouths. We hadn't even needed to leave the airplane before the pilot warned us all not to swim in Réunion's water thanks to rising shark attacks. We were treated like five year-olds by the woman who we paid to drive us to the volcano, though she was extremely nice. Everything was outrageously expensive, and people seemed to get great pleasure from things being difficult. We were subjected time and time-again to eye roll after eye roll when we shared that we were from Canada ("Ohhhh...Quebecois..." they'd mutter).

It wasn't all bad... see our other Réunion post to experience the good, but we won't be returning any time soon, and not because of the distance.